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Oaxaca is one of my favorite destinations in Mexico. Whether you are drawn there by the food or by the culture, it has something to offer everybody. Oaxaca has a rich history that is preserved in the ruins of Monte Albán. This ancient Zapotec city is only about 20 minutes from downtown Oaxaca (Centro de Oaxaca). It is definitely worth visiting during your stay! Read on to find out why!
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What is Monte Albán?
Monte Albán is an extraordinary archaeological site located in the state of Oaxaca in Mexico. This ancient city holds significant historical and cultural importance, as it was once the capital of the Zapotec civilization. Today, visitors from around the world come to see its impressive temples, palaces, tombs, and other structures.
Where is Monte Albán?
Monte Albán is located in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. It is located approximately 9 kilometers west of the capital city of Oaxaca de Juárez. This ancient city was built atop a mountain called the Cerro del Fortín, which provides strategic views of the surrounding Oaxaca Valley.
How to Get to Monte Albán
By Taxi
Monte Albán is about a 20 minute drive from downtown Oaxaca. The fastest and easiest way to get there is by taking a taxi. This is also the most expensive. Depending on your proficiency in Spanish, you can pay between 100-150 Mexican pesos (about $5.25-$7.75 USD). You may have to pay even more on the way back to Oaxaca, as there will be far fewer transportation options once you are in Monte Albán.
Via Travel Agency
Inside some of the hotels around Oaxaca, there will be travel agencies that operate shuttle buses to Monte Albán. These travel agencies will often have signs outside of the hotels to promote their services (I went to the travel agency inside the Hotel Rivera del Angel). Most shuttle buses will cost 50-60 pesos (about $2.60-$3.10 USD) round trip and take about 25 minutes to get there. These shuttles leave every hour, so make sure you plan to end your stay at Monte Albán when a shuttle bus is scheduled to depart.
You can also book a tour online.
By Public Transportation
A final option would be to take a public bus for 6 pesos ($0.30 USD) to Monte Albán. Normally, I would recommend an option like this. However, the last stop on the bus line doesn’t quite reach Monte Albán. In fact, you will have to walk 45 minutes to an hour uphill along a dirt road to make it there! For those who are adventurous and/or seriously pinching pennies, this may be a good option for you. For everyone else, I’d recommend the shuttle bus.
History of Monte Albán
Monte Albán was likely constructed around 500 B.C. The city was ruled by the Zapotecs and it incorporated different tribal groups in the area together, forming a multicultural political identity. For about 1,500 years, the city grew and increasingly became more powerful and important in the region. To the Zapotecs, this was their cultural and economic capital. The population eventually grew to 25,000 people, which was considered a huge metropolis in Mesoamerica at the time. However, starting around the year 300, the population started to decline. For the next four hundred years, Monte Albán started to lose its influence in the region.
Around the year 800, Monte Albán was abandoned. Experts are not sure why, although evidence suggests that the distinct tribal groups that came together to form part of Monte Albán started to create their own autonomous cities. This shift caused the population to collapse and Monte Albán to be largely forgotten for centuries.
Significance of Monte Albán
Monte Albán was ruled for 1,500 years by different tribes, including Olmecs, Zapotecs, and Mixtecs. Each civilization left an impact on the artwork and architecture of the pyramids, terraces, and canals that are present there. The architects of this influential city ensured that it would last for thousands of years, despite being in an earthquake-prone area.
At different times in history, Monte Albán was the largest city in Mesoamerica. This city went from being largely for ceremonial purposes into a full-fledged fortified capital city. Monte Albán’s influence spread throughout modern-day Oaxaca, and some historians believe that leaders from this city met with leaders of the Aztec Empire in Tenochtitlan. Today, it is a major source of revenue for Oaxaca due to the hundreds of thousands of visitors it receives annually. In 1987, Monte Albán became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Layout of Monte Albán
Main Plaza
At the heart of Monte Albán is the Main Plaza, which served as the central gathering space for the ancient Zapotec community. This expansive plaza is surrounded by important structures and is the best place to appreciate the grandeur of Monte Albán.
Ball Court
Monte Albán also boasts a ball court in which the Mesoamerican ball game was played. This game had significant cultural and ceremonial importance to the ancient Zapotec people. The court features sloping walls and a narrow playing field, providing insights into the ancient sports and recreational activities of the Zapotec civilization.
Pyramids and Temples
The site is home to several pyramids and temples, each with its unique architectural style and purpose. The North and South Platforms house temple structures where religious ceremonies and rituals took place. The monumental Building J, also known as the Palace, showcases the sophisticated construction techniques employed by the Zapotec people.
Observatories and Altars
Monte Albán includes several observatories and altars that highlight the advanced astronomical knowledge and spiritual practices of the Zapotec civilization. These structures were strategically positioned to observe celestial events and served as sacred spaces for rituals and offerings.
Residential Areas and Tombs
Exploring Monte Albán reveals evidence of residential areas where the ancient inhabitants lived. These areas include houses, courtyards, and terraces, providing insights into the daily life and social structure of the Zapotec society. In addition, the site features tombs and burial chambers, offering glimpses into Zapotec burial practices and honoring of their ancestors.
Carvings of Monte Albán
An interesting sight at Monte Albán is the amount of carvings depicting mostly male figures in strange contortions. The significance of these carvings, know as los danzantes, or “the dancers”, have baffled historians. Many experts believe that these men were slaves captured from a neighboring town who were castrated and sacrificed to the gods. This would explain the strange poses that the men were depicted in.
Nearby, there is a section of people depicted as nude and obese, with thick lips. Many people claim that this is an artistic influence of the neighboring Olmec tribe. However, I heard a different explanation while I was there. One tour guide was saying that this section depicted members of the ruling family after they died, almost like tombstones. The reason why they were obese was because they were rich and able to eat as much as they wanted. However, many of them had genetic defects due to intermarrying, which the artists emphasized on these carvings. While we may never know the true motivation behind these carvings, it is interesting to hear the different theories.
Mesoamerican Ball Game
One of my favorite parts of Monte Albán are the ceremonial ball courts in which the Mesoamerican ball game was played. This game was played for centuries across Mesoamerica, and ball courts have been found in prominent Maya ruins, such as Palenque or Xunantunich in Belize.
It has many different names. In English, it’s just referred to as “ball game”.
Mesoamerican Ball Game
The rules of this game varied by civilization, but the main similarities were the existence of two teams competing with a heavy rubber ball. The players had to use their hips, legs, or arms (anything but their hands) to hit the ball through a vertical hoop about 20 feet in the air. This ball could weigh anywhere from 6 to 10 lbs, and often caused bruising and other injuries to the players when they hit them. Throughout history, ruling elites often settled problems with their rivals with this ball game, sometimes wagering land or slaves to increase the stakes.
Consequences of Winning or Losing
Depending on the civilization, the losing team may be sacrificed. Sometimes, just the captain of the team would be sacrificed. In other instances, the winning team may be sacrificed! It would have been very important for the players to know what the outcome for winning and losing would be.
In Monte Albán
In Monte Albán, it appears that the ball court is flanked by seats that could have been used by spectators. However, it is more likely that these rock steps were once covered with some kind of concrete-like mixture to create a smooth sloping ramp down to the court. This would have allowed balls that were hit against them to return to the players.
Where to Stay in Oaxaca
There are a few different options to choose from when deciding where to stay in Oaxaca. What you choose will depend on your budget, desired level of luxury, and what kind of experiences you wish to have.
If you are on a budget, Trotamundo Oaxaca Hostel is the way to go. This highly-rated hostel costs about $10 USD/night and is one of the cheapest option in the city. Its central location is also very convenient for travelers.
If you want your own room, check out Hotel Rivera. This 3-star hotel is located right in the downtown area (El Centro). For travelers who want to be conveniently located near Oaxaca’s biggest attractions without blowing their budget, Hotel Rivera is an excellent choice. This economical hotel costs about $38 USD/night.
If you want to a truly luxurious experience, then check out the Casa Esmeralda Hotel. This is one of the most highly-rated hotels in Oaxaca! Located in El Centro, this hotel provides the perfect base for visiting Oaxaca’s best attractions, such as Monte Albán.
Check out the map below for available accommodations.
Best Time to Visit Monte Albán
The best time of year to visit Monte Albán is during the dry season, from November to April. Temperatures will be cooler and there will be less chance of rain compared to other months. Whenever you do decide to come, I recommend visiting on a weekday, as there will be less crowds. Finally, arrive early in the morning to be able to enjoy the area before more people show up.
What to Bring to Monte Albán
When visiting Monte Albán, it’s important to come prepared with the right items to ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience. Here are some items to consider packing for your trip:
- Comfortable walking shoes: Exploring Monte Albán involves walking on uneven terrain and climbing stairs, so you need to wear comfortable and sturdy shoes that provide good support.
- Sun protection: The sun can be intense in Monte Albán, especially during the peak hours. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun’s rays.
- Water and snacks: Staying hydrated is essential during your visit. Carry a water bottle and some snacks to keep you energized throughout the day.
- Camera
- Layered clothing for cool mornings
- Mosquito repellent during the rainy season
- Cash for entry fees and souvenirs
